Heading to Yosemite and I’m scared

Ever since I started (indoor) climbing back in 1995, there was always a huge poster of Yosemite in the main lobby of my old climbing gym. Never did I think I’d make it out there, let alone be living in the same state, years later.

Since moving to California it’s always been at the back of my mind, yet a year later I still haven’t ventured out. While Yosemite is less than a four hour drive away, I still don’t know many climbers around the area enough to ask them to come with me on a trip to Yosemite. This is where my old climbing partner comes into play. Lori and I have been climbing buddies since we first started climbing twenty years ago. Now if that doesn’t make me sound like an old fart I don’t know what does. And I still don’t really know what I’m talking about when it comes to climbing, let alone climbing outdoors. Sure I know how to top rope, lead climb, boulder or teach a person technique. But I’ve never been overly fond of learning how to set up anchors outside or trad climb with all the gear.

Why?

Because it freaks me the eff out.

I’m pretty sure I swore more in the couple of hours I was at Flatrock Festival this past summer than I did in my entire life, rappelling down a 40 foot ledge. I kept racing back up to do it again, because I feel like you grow from your fears and you should overcome them. Especially if you trust your belayer and backup (which happened to be Lori. Also scolding me from swearing around the little children). I can’t help it. I swear when I’m scared.

Lori will be coming down to California from Newfoundland next week, renting a car, picking me up, and we’re driving out to Yosemite. I might be sweatin’ from the pits already thinking about it.

Harnesses-at-Sports-BasemenOn Tuesday I picked up a new climbing harness (the Mammut Ophira 3 Slide— don’t ask me how to pronounce that O-word) because mine has since been retired (as it’s ancient for harnesses: 10 years old!). I hope to God that there isn’t such a thing as a lemon-harness. I’ve been using my husbands arc’teryx that I bought him in 2007 that he never wore. When I was in Newfoundland last summer, I was scolded by some new-to-me workers at the old climbing gym I frequented and was given a rental harness and told to pick up a new one when I headed back to California. I never did listen, because I primarily bouldered and once in a blue moon climbed on the top ropes. Apparently whether or not you use your harness, you should replace it every 5 years, for safety reasons as the webbing can deteriorate with time. Makes sense!

Gear-at-SportsBasementI had the grandest ol’ chat with this dude named Matt at my local Sports Basement about local climbing areas, what harnesses we had in the past, what he recommended and even chatting about our favourite climbing shoes. It was pretty awesome chatting with him, and I honestly don’t think they work on commission which is the best part. I was looking at picking up a new locking biner and a daisy chain, but I think we can rent those in Yosemite.

climbing-books-at-Sports-BaI wish I had a couple of more friends down in this area that I could go out and climb with, it’s hard being a little shy especially at the indoor rock climbing place I go to — I find people are usually in their own element and doing their own thing. There’s only so much “outgoing” one person can be!

So! Like I said, next week Lori and I are heading to Yosemite — I’m a bit scared because even after climbing all these years, I’m still afraid of heights (which I personally think is a good fear) and we’re doing a multi-pitch climb! Luckily, we’ve hired a guide to do it with us, but holy moses I’m freakin’ out. Exciting and scary!

Check back here tomorrow for Alfie’s weekly posts (I took him to the little town of Saratoga and we walked all around). But after that, come back in around St. Paddy’s Day and I’ll be back to regular blogging.

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12 Gift Ideas for Rock Climbers

12-Gift-Ideas-for-Climbers

Has anyone thought about Christmas shopping yet? It’s coming! My favourite time of the year! Thought I’d put together a little wishlist for myself or those who have rock climbing friends and have no idea what to get them for Christmas.Climbers-Gift-Guide

1. Hand Grip Strength donut — Although it may not look like much, it comes in handy especially when it comes to healing finger injuries or wanting to improve your strength. With 3 resistances to choose from, your climber friend will thank you for this small, yet thoughtful gift. I have the 30lb resistance, then do reps of 10 squeezes until failure. Oh the burn!

2. Rock climbing mugs — Who doesn’t want to practice their crimp strength while chugging their morning cuppa joe? You know I had a nickname once: Crimper Queen.

3. Carabiner necklace — LOVE! A mini carabiner that is functional in the way that it locks and opens? Way too cool. Clearly not for climbing. But it’s sweet.

4. Crash Pad — Anyone who heads out to get a bouldering session in, most likely would require a crash pad to cushion a fall. And guess what? After 19 years of climbing and bouldering, I still don’t have one! Many companies make them now besides the bigger brands, and what is neat is that they can now be completely branded and customized to your own style.

5. Figure 8 bracelet — Back in High School this was all I wore on my wrists.

6. Chalk bags — What else are you going to put your chalk in?

7. Climbing tee’s — You know, to keep you warm before you start climbing.

8. Sculptures — Self explanatory, a little artwork on your walls?

9. Climbing Shoes — La Sportiva is a trusted brand of mine. The lace-up (now men’s) miura’s create a snug fit for a narrow foot, especially in the heel cup area. I’ve retired those and bought La Sportiva women’s velcro Katana’s. Not as aggressive, but still can do a mean heel hook and not slip off. Their rubber is impeccable too.

10. Harness — I’m due for a harness upgrade. Thinking keeping with my theme and going for the always reliable Arc’teryx.

11.Chalk — Check out Friction Labs, especially the Unicorn Dust. You don’t have to chalk up as often, take that from me. I’ve been using it since the summer.

12. Mini rope keychain — Adorable, another must have. I’m’ eventually going to buy this for myself.

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Throwback Thursday: Climbing edition

If it wasn’t for my brother and Leo, his high school buddy, I would have never become a climber. 19 years ago, Leo and his family opened the climbing gym back home in Newfoundland Canada. From the beginning, when they recruited their friends to help build Wallnuts, I watched. I don’t recall much of it, but I do remember the warehouse transforming into the unknown. I didn’t have any interest in it back then, but I went to scope it out a few times.

My brother didn’t bother to climb much, but I went in for their daily kids camp and climbed til my hearts content. While I was visiting Newfoundland for five weeks this summer, I looked back on a few old photo albums I had as a kid and came across this oldie.

Wallnuts1995Shoes, chalk bag, and a harness — all rentals. This was me at the kids camp in 1995, the first year the climbing gym was opened. Umbro shorts and all, I am about to top out on my favourite wall in the gym: the roof. Wallnuts has since renovated their walls, including eliminating my favourite roof and looking at expanding to another location, all signs of growth.

My first pair of climbing shoes were the 5.10 MoccAsym’s. But the one’s to write home about were my second pair of climbing shoes, the La Sportiva (now men’s) Miura lace-up’s. An aggressive shoe with the perfect heel cup, amazing for heel hooking, and having fun at comp’s ;)RockFall05

highball-bouldering

orange-hair-bouldering

frontpageThroughout the years I had a few one-on-one coaching sessions with the guys, where I began to climb harder routes, how to climb quietly, when to chalk up on a route, and make the routes more efficient on my body to not tire myself out too much. Years later, I got the guts to get my lead climbing course done. I was terrified I wouldn’t be able to lock out the figure 8 belay devices, and ATC’s. I got used to it, I did the course and from there I started climbing lead confidently.

After 19 years of climbing, can you believe I am still afraid of heights? I suppose, that’s a good thing. I don’t want to be too daring or bold—it’s not in my personality. I like to play it safe. When I boulder at my new climbing gym here in California, I often down climb the boulder problems because falling is simply too spooky for me. The bonus side of that is that I’m perfecting my technique each down climb, gaining more endurance with the static moves I do.

I have a many awesome memories of climbing at Wallnuts, and I’m so happy for the experiences I had while I lived in Newfoundland.

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